A January visit to Berlin induces some trepidation. The promise of weather direct from Siberia and memories of a grey, divided frontier city don’t help. Expectations duly managed down, arrival at Tagel presented flutters on snow and a job lot of battleship grey cloud. Travel doesn’t come less promising.

Heartened by the efficiency of Tegel’s arrival system and easy transport to the centre, we set out to rediscover the city where, more than any other, the narrative of the 20th century was written. We found a destination with the capacity to surprise, which exceeds expectations. A city that has found ways to understand its past and which wants its guests to understand too. A city that has put the worst of times into perspective and now looks to its future with optimism.

Berlin’s time has come. It has rejoined the ranks of Europe’s capital cities and is one of the most exciting – probably the coolest place and most creative place on the continent at the start of the new century. Nowhere else can match the combination of volatile history, cultural diversity, earth changing events and iconic symbolism. It’s easy very quickly to feel part of it.

Berlin has come a long way from the bombed out wreck of 1945. Buildings of the Prussian Imperial period when the city’s industry and power grew developed sit magnificantly restored alongside soaring ultra modern towers of light. The powerful vision of Schinkel, the great Prussian architect of his day, and the ability of today’s Berliners to reshape that vision to modern times demands admiration.

Rebuilding Berlin is a permanent project. The city has made necessity the mother of invention. Berlin has siezed the moment with enthusiasm and verve. It is infectious. Be uplifted and exhierated by the energy of the place. The darker edge of cold war times has gone, replaced by a cultural flowearing that is an explosion of colour and expression. The artistic revival, the nightlife – far removed from the UK’s city centre monoculture, the joyous modern architecture and public spaces draw you towards the spirit of a place that will make you feel young as long as you go with its flow.

There is a view that this is a self-conscious attempt to re-create Berlin’s ‘Golden Twenties’ when the city was a hotbed of creativity and decadence – not to mention massive social upheaval, economic catastrophy and political mayhem. That viuew is too simplistic. The flowering of Berlin is more than a mere marketing exercise, it is a sustained reaction to a long period of grey, a desire to create something different and distinctive, to reclaim a surpressed identity, to restore a stolen individuality to return from the edge to the centre of a new Europe.

Berlin’s time as a divided city bequeathed two cultural districts, two television towers, two commercial centres and so on. Berlin’s eastern and western districts are distinctly different, but it can’t be completely covered in a weekend, it’s too big and there is little point beyond sampling. Engage in the ultra-cool delights of Berlin’s cocktail bars – every city has them, but this city’s are, and have always been, a bit special. And despite the view of many locals that Berlin’s local dish is the doner kebab, interesting modern German food at reasonable prices isn’t hard to find.

Even in mid winter the clouds are frequently replaced by deep blue skies and bright clear continental sunshine. It’s easy to linger too long saying a reluctant goodbye to Berlin, sterotypical German efficiency ensures that catching the return flight is safely predictable. Berlin’s transport rarely let one down.

Five Top Berlin Tips

1. Sometimes it is quicker to walk than take the U-Bhan.
2. Brunch is good.
3. Take a taxi to the door of the bar you want to find.
4. Don’t waste your time looking for Hitler’s bunker.
5. Drink cocktails