John Howarth - Journalism

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Five Decent Curries

(so long as you don’t mind travelling)

When I travelled round the south east for a living one thing I could rely on was the Indian restaurant in every one-horse town. But these days I think twice about Indian. Maybe I just overdid the curries back then, but somehow I think it is more just plain boredom.

The Indian restaurant ‘three pot curry’ formula lost its charm for me long since, but there is one thing I still find difficult to fathom: why, when Reading has such a rich ethnic mix, is it so hard to find an Indian restaurant that offers something different to the three pot norm?

At risk of upsetting some of my friends, while getting an acceptable meal is no challenge, the odds are that it will taste the same as the last one.

This selection of five includes two locals and three involving a journey – but each one is well worth it.

Chennai Dosa

73 Whitley Street, RG2 0EG www.chennaidosa.com 0118 975 8181

Cash only, no booking, formica tables, plastic cups and metal trays but quite simply the best and most authentic Indian food in Reading by a country mile and probably the best for vegetarian food too. The Whitley Street site hosted a sting of failed restaurants until the south Indian chain made it their first location outside London. It was a shrewd decision. At peak times expect to queue for a table and don’t expect a familiar menu – but ask advice and you shall receive. Try one of the many dosa dishes (a kind of south Indian crepe which you can get individually or in a six foot ‘family’ version) or any of the tiffin. And one of the best things is it is also Reading’s least expensive Indian food – expect to pay less than a tenner for three courses and soft drinks – the last time I looked there was no alcohol licence, but hey.

chenai dosa's 6 foot family dosa

The six foot family dosa – quite something by the look of it.

 

Benaras

Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS www.benaresrestaurant.com 020 7629 8886

Atul Kochhar’s Michelin starred Mayfair restaurant is about as far removed from Chennai Dosa as you could get, but it has in common something different to the norm. Yes, you can spend a fortune if you feel inclined but you don’t have to as the Prix Fixe menu offers intriguing selections for a reasonable price (two courses £19, three for £25 including a cocktail, coffe and petit fours). So go to town and treat yourself.

Madhu’s

39 South Road, Southall, UB1 1SW www.madhusonline.com 020 8574 1897

If it’s authentic you want, then eat where Indian’s eat. A drive to Southall not only guarantees great food but also a great experience. You could just hit on any one of countless eateries and get a fine meal, but my favourite is Mhadu’s where the Keema Mutta is to die for. Booking is essential but chaotic, greeting is friendly but chaotic, service is attentive, friendly and chaotic, in fact the only thing that isn’t chaotic is the food where every flavour comes through. What you lose on the petrol from Reading you save on the price – less than £20 per head with drinks for more than it’s sensible to eat for a comfortable journey home.

Malik’s

High Street, Cookham SL6 9SF www.maliks.co.uk 01628 520085

Highly rated by many, including Heston Blumenthal, Malik’s lives up to its reputation with good service to match the flavours. Dishes like King Prawn Suka – a sweet and sour Tamarind sauce – offer something beyond the average. As well as the flagship restaurant in Cookham there are two other Malik’s branches: at Marlow and Gerard’s Cross. Booking is essential. Three course with drinks will set you back £30 a head, but not overpriced for the quality.

Bina Tandoori

21 Prospect Street Caversham RG4 8JG www.binatandoori.co.uk 0118 946 2115

You get the idea from the music on the website, but I still think that the Bina is the best of Reading’s bunch if you are looking for the familiar. The last time I was there the Jalfiazi was rather good and the Biryani, a standard to be judged by, was reliably good. Prices are at little higher than many of Reading’s other restaurants but I’ve yet to have a bad meal there.